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What a difference a year makes??    Let’s take a look.  Rainfall totals for last 3 years. My records go back to 2011

2018...Jan 174mm.. Feb 62mm.. Mar 161mm.. Apr 62mm.. May 45mm

2019...Jan 36mm.. Feb 57mm.. Mar56mm.. Apr 49mm.. May9mm

2020...Jan 64mm.. Feb 135mm.. Mar 66mm.. Apr 22mm.. May 26mm.

Interestingly, last year, from January, was drier than this. With May, significantly less. I don’t keep temperature records. But have to assume turf is suffering more due to  higher temperature than rainfall.

 

 

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Intresting to see those figures. 

For us a couple weeks ago the pitch was fairly good. A bit dry but not to bad. When the temperature reached the mid 20s thats when the burning really kicked in. And pretty much all within a few days. 

Fortunately the rain has returned. Its been raining here all afternoon. The sprinklers are not needed just yet. 

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Very interesting this morning looking at the pitch, dew formation on the side that has been watered...not on the other side.

This tells me the watered side has had sufficient water for the grass to be actively moving water through its structure, a good sign indeed.

The arrows show the transpiration point of the watered grass, no dew on the other side shows that the grass is shutting down to dormancy...not enough moisture in the soil for the formation of dew on the grass tips.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20200608-232402_Gallery.jpg

Dew forms when the grass is releasing (transpiration) water that has passed through the plant taking the nutrients to the plant, all the water that the grass absorbs is eventually released back into the atmosphere along with oxygen a by product of photosynthesis. 

Dew forms in the early morning when the air temperature is at its lowest and contacts moisture released by the plant through radiated heat from the ground forming dew.

The non watered side will have narrower leave blades to reduce transpiration and the stomata (openings mainly on the underside of the leaf) will be closing to stop water loss. This happens when the roots detect loss of soil hydraulics and they send a message by acidic enzymes to the stomata to close.

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9 hours ago, TheolderIgetthebetterIwas said:

Very interesting this morning looking at the pitch, dew formation on the side that has been watered...not on the other side.

This tells me the watered side has had sufficient water for the grass to be actively moving water through its structure, a good sign indeed.

The arrows show the transpiration point of the watered grass, no dew on the other side shows that the grass is shutting down to dormancy...not enough moisture in the soil for the formation of dew on the grass tips.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20200608-232402_Gallery.jpg

Dew forms when the grass is releasing (transpiration) water that has passed through the plant taking the nutrients to the plant, all the water that the grass absorbs is eventually released back into the atmosphere along with oxygen a by product of photosynthesis. 

Dew forms in the early morning when the air temperature is at its lowest and contacts moisture released by the plant through radiated heat from the ground forming dew.

The non watered side will have narrower leave blades to reduce transpiration and the stomata (openings mainly on the underside of the leaf) will be closing to stop water loss. This happens when the roots detect loss of soil hydraulics and they send a message by acidic enzymes to the stomata to close.

I thought the arrows were to remind the Penryn players which way they're playing!

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37 minutes ago, Goldeneye said:

I thought the arrows were to remind the Penryn players which way they're playing!

Sideways(?) Lol.

Interestingly this morning with the temperature down at 11⁰ and the rain we must have had overnight there's dew across the whole pitch today, different from yesterday this is atmospheric dew caused in exactly the same way but cold enough to form from the air this morning. 

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4 hours ago, Keith B said:

Blimey older - all this knowledge and wisdom ! I take my hat off to you sir.

Which university did you attend .. or was it the simply the University of Life ? ☺️

5 years of day release Cornwall College, and further (many) courses throughout my horticultural working life.

I never turned down an opportunity to further my education, had many days at Spurs, Ipswich, Southampton, Millennium stadium and others meeting professional grounds people...loved it.

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20 hours ago, TheolderIgetthebetterIwas said:

Very interesting this morning looking at the pitch, dew formation on the side that has been watered...not on the other side.

This tells me the watered side has had sufficient water for the grass to be actively moving water through its structure, a good sign indeed.

The arrows show the transpiration point of the watered grass, no dew on the other side shows that the grass is shutting down to dormancy...not enough moisture in the soil for the formation of dew on the grass tips.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20200608-232402_Gallery.jpg

Dew forms when the grass is releasing (transpiration) water that has passed through the plant taking the nutrients to the plant, all the water that the grass absorbs is eventually released back into the atmosphere along with oxygen a by product of photosynthesis. 

Dew forms in the early morning when the air temperature is at its lowest and contacts moisture released by the plant through radiated heat from the ground forming dew.

The non watered side will have narrower leave blades to reduce transpiration and the stomata (openings mainly on the underside of the leaf) will be closing to stop water loss. This happens when the roots detect loss of soil hydraulics and they send a message by acidic enzymes to the stomata to close.

Excellent explanation.  The lack of dew on an area can be used as an early warning of isolated dry patch. This in turn can then be spot treated with a wetting agent, and/or flood watered with a hose.

Whats really interesting, is that botanically. Dew is when moisture in the air condenses on the plant, much like on a car windscreen in the morning. Where as, when the plant releases excess moisture through the leaves, and forms a “dew”it is known as guttation fluid.

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Thanks Mrgreen. I've learned something there, never heard, been lectured or read anything about guttation fluid! That's completely new knowledge for me...excellent...thanks again. 

I have just had an hour or so reading about it...bloody interesting subject that is.

Often used as a measurement as to how much the plant has absorbed chemicals and nutrient levels within crops.

Also how many, many bees and insects die when drinking the chemically lased fluid!

These days I no longer spray when weeds are in flower so as not to kill bees, I will in future not spray when the conditions favour production of guttation fluid or remove the flowers first...excellent new knowledge. 

Top of the class for you sir.

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6 hours ago, TheolderIgetthebetterIwas said:

Put the fertiliser down this afternoon...washed away tonight...lol.

Been raining here since 11.00...ish now 1.30 am and absolutely chucking it down!

Can't win!

Should do it some good having it well washed in would it not? 

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1 hour ago, Paul said:

Should do it some good having it well washed in would it not? 

Should do...hopefully. 

The rain may have been heavy enough to move the prills into puddles in some areas...hope not, also may push it it through the profile a bit quicker shortening its affect. Still raining here now, that's 10 hours so at least the soil profile is getting a good soaking.

 

Just come back from the pitch...2ft of water in the trench overnight...good water but temperature down to 10⁰

 

Screenshot_20200611-092802_Gallery.jpg

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5 hours ago, TheolderIgetthebetterIwas said:

Nice bit of rain with the fertiliser and looking a lot greener now, just a nice crop of clover to sort out over the next few weeks.

 

Screenshot_20200613-154608_Gallery.jpg

It does seem to have been a good year for turf weeds, and particularly clover. Mostly, I believe down to the slower than average spring growth rate. Now the grass should kick on, it might out compete most new weed growth.

2 hours ago, Paul said:

Just 8 days after seeding and we have grass coming through. Generally the pitch is looking much better after all the rain weve had. Just a couple burnt areas that are not recovering as quickly. 

20200613_184314.jpg

Very good result, especially weather wise. It’s only a short time ago that we were all doubting the wisdom of over seeding in a heatwave.

Fortune does, indeed, favour the brave. Now the seed has had a chance to establish,  any irrigation can be safely applied. Can only go from strength to strength now..... We’ll done again.

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Weve got a bit lucky. Plenty of rain from the off and today its been a bit warmer with just the odd damp bit of rain. Misty rain now which is ideal. Stopping it drying out but not soaking it. Next week theres a few odd spots to seed a bit more and we should be looking ok. Keep the damp weather with the warm temperatures and we should have a fairly healthy pitch. Its been 10 days since the last cut. Will give it a few more days before taking anything off the pitch at the moment. 

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Yes Mrgreen a very good year for weeds so far, have probably been over the pitch half a dozen times or more already and they still keep coming! 

Same as you, the slow spring growth due to temperature and then drier weather left space for the weeds to fill, certainly clover which I left untreated and now regret!

Live and learn.

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Falmouth town player (rumoured) cutting Penryn pitch!!!!!

 

Screenshot_20200617-142514_Gallery.jpg

Spotted this today ...red thread disease caused by low nitrogen levels, luckily we have just fertilised so this patch is dead. If it was living these patches would an obvious red colour.

If untreated it will spread very quickly, it can also be partially contained by brushing the dew off the grass in the morning.

 

Screenshot_20200617-142541_Gallery.jpg

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Red thread. One of the three main turf diseases. The other two being fusarium patch, and dollar spot. Red thread is the easiest to avoid/control.  I suspect, now the grass has had a growth spurt it’s struggling to take enough N. If it were only ticking away, it may well have been fine. 

In finer turf, red thread is an indication that dollar spot could follow, also a low nutrient disease.  Dollar spot is far more serious, and can if left untreated, decimate whole areas. Treatment can cost as much as £800 per Ha. Often two applications required.

Fusarium is an Autumn disease, usually caused by over feeding and dewy mornings.

Ryegrass can also suffer from rust, but is only really a visual thing.

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Managed to get a good cut in before the rain. The grass is really thickning up. Got more soil coming to top up a few little areas around the pitch and get some seed in the ground. The wet weather is really helping at the moment. 

20200617_215053.jpg

13 days since seeding. Coming on nicely. 

20200617_215511.jpg

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On 17/06/2020 at 23:04, TheolderIgetthebetterIwas said:

Looking good there buddy, do you mix your topsoil with  a bit of sand to stop it packing up too much in the rain (?)

Just a bit to stop it getting to compact. Could have done with more i think. Might have to add a top dressing and let it push into the soil perhaps. 

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1 hour ago, Paul said:

Just a bit to stop it getting to compact. Could have done with more i think. Might have to add a top dressing and let it push into the soil perhaps. 

You'll have to be a bit careful if you try to topdress any young grass as it will not be strong enough to push through a heavy dressing especially if it rains on it.

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4 hours ago, TheolderIgetthebetterIwas said:

Here you go Mrgreen, remember that weed(?)

Here it is again and what it grew into.

 

Screenshot_20200619-153804_Gallery.jpg

You got it with one of your suggestions...a Ragwort...great shout.

 

Screenshot_20200619-153807_Gallery.jpg

Also started putting the box pattern in today

...looking better already. 

Screenshot_20200619-153913_Gallery.jpg

If you take enough guesses, one off them is bound to stick. Even a blind squirrel finds the occasional acorn.😉

warmer weather returns next week, growth is really gonna kick on. Good to see some players on the pitch. Although groundsmen every where moan about players, they are the sole reason for pitch/course/court preparation. Without them, it would just be a mown down field.

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Yes totally agree a pitch is there to be played on, although I've always said during the season there's always one or two games that should never have been played which cause huge amounts of damage! With change in the weather patterns these days though that can go up to 5 or 6 games in a season now!

Certainly it is perfect weather for grass now and at least two cuts a week will be the norm, might even be three to thicken the sward and reduce heavy clippings which could encourage a bit of thatch...dont want that.

Will also brush regularly to remove morning dew and give a bit of lift to get fresh air circulating around the tillers and crown to reduce disease and let the grass breathe better. 

Grass loves being brushed and is as important as cutting it at this time of the year. 

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20 minutes ago, Mrgreen said:

Question.

Purely from a groundsman perspective,(try to ignore pitches being hard, and weather being too hot)  do you guys wish football was a summer sport.

Would it make your life easier, or would there be hidden problems. And if so, what

Hello Mrgreen. For me football in the summer would be fine but only if you can irrigate as rye grass needs lots of water to flourish in the summer.

Water is not cheap and putting out 60+ cubic metres a day would soon run up a substantial bill!

We can run two travelling sprinklers on our pressure so imagine the bill then!!!

I would load up games at the start of the season to avoid floodlit matches after October when temperatures are dropping and there is no recovery for the grass in the winter. 

Also you could possibly have a small winter break if you already had a good few games under your belt.

Smaller leagues would also benefit pitches reducing the number of games during what looks like very wet winters being the norm. 

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yes go along with all that Dave, have long advocated a mid winter break especially after the last two winters, mid December to mid January. At least in Cornwall the grass does start to recover from February onwards although very slowly. I know there will be all sorts of wringing of hands and cries of anguish from the purists; "we used to play with mud up to our knees". Done that, been there, don't want those days to return for any people I provide pitches for.Probably won't happen but we live in hope!

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Finally got around to setting all 3 units with the setting bar and what a difference! 

Using the manufacturer's settings against the setting bar showed up a 4mm difference in the cylinders cutting heights...they were all different! But not now and have lovely finish to the cut now.

 

Screenshot_20200624-193513_Gallery.jpg

This is a setting bar showing 4 points of contact whe used for measuring,  it is the only way to set a cylinder height correctly. There are plenty of online videos showing how to use them.

Also adjusted the cylinder to bottom blade using the paper method, there are online videos showing this method as well. The 3 units are now all perfectly aligned and cutting lovely.

A setting bar.

Screenshot_20200624-230847_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20200624-230850_Gallery.jpg

Remember if you set your height on a hard surface your cut will actually be a bit lower as the weight of the machine pushes the cutting blade (bottom blade) into the sward.

The temperature here this afternoon,  heres hoping the rain forecast for Friday actually happens or the ground is going to rapidly dry with this heat!

Screenshot_20200624-230833_Gallery.jpg

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Also on the lookout for a verticutter to remove a few long ends that the cylinders cannot nip off. Remember that if your mower has floating heads then it cannot cut grass longer than the distance between the front roller and the bottom blade.

Fixed head units can as no front roller so can cut grass a lot longer than the floating head.

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