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Mrgreen last won the day on April 14

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  1. Not ideal seeding in a heatwave, but anything is possible. Be prepared to water for a fair few hours a day. For, not only a few days, but for few months. Water the ground well, before seeding, then try to avoid watering until seed is established. Try to water with fine droplets, rather than big heavy flooding droplets. Roll area when seedings are around an inch high, while surface is dry. This will re afirm the surface, and encourage a second tillering. Making a thicker sward. Good luck.
  2. All roads seem to be leading to charlock.
  3. I think this weekend, was when turfgrass went from a little dry. Into temporary wilting point. Mainly down to the heat I think. Still recoverable. Permanent wilting point is more serious. As the name suggests, no way back from this. Fortunately grass rarely suffers. Most soil types will hold just enough moisture to sustain plant turgidity, in established plants. Newer seedlings are a lot more vulnerable. It looks as though some relief may be on the way midweek, just in time I would suggest.
  4. You could always let it grow, to find out!!!
  5. Oh, bugger. That blows that theory out of the water. Doesn’t really look much like either one, does it? The big clump of yellow weeds in photo, is what I know as charlock. I think some may know it as mustard seed or rape. Dry patch....bit of a subject, try and stay with me guys, and stay awake!! True dry patch is when the soil particles become coated with a waxy substance. This makes the soil, what is known as hydrophobic and is virtually impossible to re wet. A surfactant ( surface activant) also known as wetting agents help by breaking down surface tension (makes water, wetter) Fairy liquid is a surfactant, it cuts through the greasy (waxy) coating on the plate to clean it. It will also strip the wax off your car. Soil surfactants work in a similar way. The standard industry test for dry patch is, called a droplet test. Take a core sample. Lay it on its side and apply a few drops of water at various points if water sits or beads on surface it’s probably dry patch. Check against an area that isn’t showing symptoms. If water soaks in within a few seconds, then it isn’t dry patch. It’s just DRY. If water beads, drop a little fairy liquid in water it will soak in, just to prove the point. DO NOT USE FAIRY LIQUID ON YOUR PITCH. I’m not sure if it’s suitable. Dry patch tends to return in the same spots every year, whether treated or not. As older rightly suggests a soil with good microbiology is less prone to dry patch. I think, probably because the soil microbes munch on the waxy deposits. Soil surfactants are a whole subject on their own. For another day if your a sucker for punishment?
  6. Just a thought, that I had today. Bit of a long shot to be honest.. Could it have come in, in the mole hills you processed. I’m still edging towards, young, stunted, charlock.
  7. Pitches having a rest will certainly help. However they don’t look good by chance. A fair bit of skill, and considerable time and dedication is required, not to mention financial investment. Those pitches without these things, and just left to their own devices, will be in a very similar condition to when they were abandoned.
  8. I meant to post last week, but forgot. I ran past Hayle pitch last week, didn’t get any closer than road from Joppa. Looked fab.
  9. Ok. Here goes. To be really honest, I don’t know. I’m going to have to take an educated guess It appears to me, like a young plant, that hasn’t been allowed to develop due to close mowing. It kind of looks like a young Charlock. (Big woody bush, with yellow flowers) seeds like buggery. But I’d like to edge my bets a little and say it could also be a young ragwort. Take a look around, over a few hedges, and see what’s in abundance. Sorry I can’t be of any further assistance, but if you get a firm identification post it, to let us know.
  10. Most likely the female of the species. Male dogs tend to lift a leg and use a post, or something similar.(much like myself) Where as the bitch will squat and go anywhere(much like my first girlfriend). Foxes have a similar effect.
  11. A perfectly adjusted and set cylinder mower is a thing of beauty. Certainly nice to have an option. Useful to have in the stable, if space allows. Cut often enough, and in dry conditions, boxing off is not essential. If boxes are to be used, the rear vacuum plates or needed to create vortex to throw grass forwards, or backwards for rear unit. Question.... Do you set the stripe width with the brush, or the 180. And do you adhere to the same stripes with every process. The reason I ask, is that Ryan APPEARS to be travelling the wrong way down the light stripe?
  12. With no real rain in the forecast, is anybody thinking about irrigation? While I’d be surprised if many pitches needed water to stay alive just yet, a groundsman vanity is a curious thing. No doubt the turf would respond very nicely to a little water, especially any new seedlings, With zero play to accommodate is the extra time and cost worth it? Height of cut could be raised and frequency reduced to ease the stresses. With this dry period seed heads and stalks will become prevalent. No problem for a rotary mower, but those with gang mowers or cylinders, a real pain. With the cost of water on the increase(somewhere around £2 a cubic metre) 1000ltrs maybe a wetting agent would be useful? Put VERY simply wetting agents, make water, wetter!! These applied with a liquid seaweed spray, can have a real positive effect while using less water. Quite expensive though, and most need to be sprayed. Paul. If budgets allow, try and time all processes together. Spiking first will give the seed somewhere to go, and allow any dressings to key together with the surface, sometimes if sand is just applied to top, it will create its own layer. Better to mix(key) it to existing soil. If it’s to be an annual event, sand is the way to go, however, if it’s a one off event, try and source a 70/30 top dressing mix. A 30 tonne load is somewhere around £1000 ( I know what your thinking. SHIT, a grand!!) There’s a contractor down my way called Andrew Sandow. Sorry don’t have a number. But he’s decent. Or for materials try BHGS, formally JFC Munro’s. Make sure you speak to Andrew janman. Nobody else in there has a clue!!
  13. As a general rule, the only people to benefit from a soil nutrition sample is the Fertiliser salesman!! Nutrient lock up does occur, but rarely. Don’t get to hung up on the minor nutrients, there is more than enough in a soil based pitch. Having played at ting tang a few times, both in wet, and dry conditions. Drainage/ Aeration, would be my main focus, rather than minor nutrition supplements. The reason I say this, is, as I recall, the surface went from wet to bone hard very quickly. The grass that was on the pitch always seemed pretty healthy, just a little sparse. Feed sensibly, preferably with an organic Fertiliser.Cut little and often. And above all, Aerate as deep and as often as you can afford. Having said all of that. When constructing a pitch.. PREPARATION,PREPARATION,PREPARATION. If constructed badly, you will always have a battle.
  14. Embarrassingly, it took me way too long to “get” the keeper joke. If I may be so bold as to offer an opinion. I’ve sometimes witnessed some damage to new seedlings when a liquid iron product has been applied. What appears to be similar to desiccation, and often leading to death. Certainly stay clear of anything to “hot” such as iron sulphate. Not sure whether a chelated liquid would have a similar devastating effect???
  15. Ryan sounds like a keeper. It’s nice to be freed up to do other stuff. Are the dandelions new stock, or regrowth from earlier treated plants. On close up the sward looks a little open, perfect for weed ingress. As it thickens, weeds may become less of a problem. The good AND bad with turf, is that there’s always a problem to deal with.
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